Cleopatra Lorintiu « Rag Dolls »

In spite of its great diversity, the traditional Romanian costume has a fairly homogeneous character.
   
The items composing the traditional outfit for men and women are the same, both for work and celebration, irrespective of the ethnographic region they originate in, namely:
   - shirts
and
   - items covering the body from the waist down
For instance, this would be a woman’s outfit:
   - shirt
   - apron
   - woollen skirt
For men:
   - trousers
   - thong
   - footwear and warm clothes for winter (vests, sheepskin coats, smocks)

   Considering this homogeneous structure,the diversity of the national Romanian costume is truly impressive irrespective of region. It corresponds to life conditions in different territorial units.
The inspiration for national costumes originates in ancient times, back to the era of the Dacians, before the arrival of the Roman legions which conquered part of the country’s nowadays territory, founding what is known as Dacia Romana. The shirt may have various forms: the shirt in one strip, the shirt in two strips horizontally or vertically united. Creating a fragile rag doll that one could hold in their arms has been my dream since I was a child! Today it has become real.

   But what is my doll wearing?
Well, it wears a woman blouse fastened round the neck: ornamental decorations are placed on the sleeves and on the front part of it. In Romanian, it is called “ie” (it is worn all over Romania, except for Maramureş County and Dobrudja, where the structure of the national costume is different).

There are three variants for the sleeves:
   1. large and loose at arm’s joints
   2. fastened with a string, as in the case of the collar
   3. bordered with a small strip or with a flounce
   On the sleeves, there are ornamental rows decorating them in the upper part or on the whole length.
The “skirt”, made of white fabric, fastens round the waist and is bordered with lace.

The woollen apron (also known as “catrinţă”): decorative patterns are placed on the lower part of this clothing item, in the shape of a large border made of two or three horizontal rows of patterns.  

Fringes of the same colour hang from the lower end of the apron (see right image).

The apron at the back is simpler, bordered with fringes (colourful or black).
The apron and the skirt fasten round the waist by means of a braid - a colourful, woollen string (called “brâu”).

The fringed apron is a type of skirt which consists of an upper part, called rag, and long tassels attached to the rag in the shape of loose, vertical fringes (it is common only to a limited area in Bistra Valley, Almaj Valley, Hateg Country and Jiu Valley, as well as to the Aromanian groups in South-East Europe).

- on the head, the doll wears a kerchief, a triangular item made of soft, red fabric (called “năframă” or “batic”)
- the doll wears leather, traditional Romanian shoes (known as “opinci”), tied with sholaces round the ankle. (see right photo)
   More details to come! You will also have the opportunity to buy one of these dolls!

(translation: Oana Ilinca Moldovan)